Pitoncraft-
The Lost Art of Climbing

Once hailed as the preferred
method for establishing protection
and anchoring. Now seen as
obsolete and unacceptable except
for aid climbing in the most
remote areas. It is a truly valuable
skill for the modern climber to add
to his bag of tricks. Granted,
smashing iron does scar the rock,
so you would not want to utilize
this as a means of egress on
established routes that will go on
"clean" pro. Pitons placed and
removed in a careful and artful
manner can give access to other
means of protection on a second
ascent.
:: Ironmongery/Pitoncraft
:: NM Climber.com
Here is an example
of the versatility of
ironcraft. This solo
aid anchor in
volcanic tuft would
by no means be
secure by utilizing
cams or chocks as
the facing material
is crumbly and
would allow the
pieces to move
when force is
applied to the
anchor. The pitons
reach far deeper
into the crack and
are set into much
better rock.
                                  Pin Theory

There are basically two types of pitons (pins), protection and
progression. Protection pins have a circled "s" stamped on their body
( or at least they used to.. old style) and can be identified by their
shape (beefy lost arrows, spoonbills and others with large hammer
surfaces molded into the body). These are the culprits that have
made a bad name for themselves in areas like Serenity Crack in
Yosemite. These pins do not alter in shape when hammered but
rather alter the rock. A well sunk Lost Arrow can be considered a
fixed pin as it is a devil to remove and requires widening of the
placement crack to remove it. I personally would use one of these
only if I was faced with an anchoring situation that had severe
exposure and a high risk of the anchor having to take a direct fall.

The angle piton and the bong are considered a progression pin as
their usage is primarily for aid situations when a more secure
placement is needed due to rope lifting and movement. These I feel
are most suitable for horizontal cracks or when I need a backup for
cams (widgets) and smaller tricams etc. Think of them as a better
solution to clove hitching opposed nuts or whatever in a horizontal
crack when the next move is a traverse. No matter what degree of
tugging you inflict on cams, nuts etc, a healthy force will always
rotate the placement unexpectedly.

Now consider the knifeblades and their different configurations.
These give a bit when placed and produce little scarring. They hold
on shear force like a bolt and their biner holes can be used
horizontally and vertically. They are classified by their manufacturer
as a progression pin. Their brothers, the z-piton I believe should be
classified as a step in between progression and safety. They have
the rigidity of a protection pin and the utility of an angle/stacker built
in.  
Here is an example
of the versatility of
ironcraft. This solo
aid anchor in
volcanic tuft would
by no means be
secure by utilizing
cams or chocks as
the facing material
is crumbly and
would allow the
pieces to move
when force is
applied to the
anchor. The pitons
reach far deeper
into the crack and
are set into much
better rock.
 Aid Class- Pitoncraft  
 
If this kind of material is what you are interested in
learning, along with the skills to implement them, use
this link to request a class or classes.